Dear Outdoors, here you can read all the information you need to organise a space trip in the mountains! One of those days full of wonder, which will make you feel grateful and lucky to be there.
The trek we propose is really super scenic, with passages amidst rocks that look like sculptures, clean air and lots of unspoilt nature.
Here it is not uncommon to encounter chamois, marmots and many beautiful flowers, of which Monte Baldo is the proud guardian.
Ascent with the Prada – Costabella cable car
The first long stretch of the ascent is made by the Prada – Costabella cable car, which runs from Prada di San Zeno di Montagna, at an altitude of 1000m, to the Fiori del Baldo hut, just below Cima Costabella, at a good 1850m.
The ascent is made up of a first section taken by a two-seater basket lift (which passes through the woods – it feels like being in them, it is a wonderful sensation) up to Ortigaretta (1550 m); and a second section by a two-seater chair lift (which overlooks the meadow pastures amidst cows, alpine pastures, watering holes and, if you are lucky like me, even marmots) up to Costabella.
Obviously throughout the entire stretch there is a crazy lake view, which widens as you climb. Truly thrilling, not only for the obvious beauty of the panorama, but also for the slow and silent approach, which allows you to enter into respectful contact with the nature you traverse.
Description of the path to Telegrafo refuge
As soon as we get off the chair lift, we come to the Fiori del Baldo hut and a little further up, about 15 minutes’ walk away, the beautiful Chierego hut. Already from here the view of the lake is truly a spectacle.
We take the CAI 658 path on the left, which will take us in about 1.5 to 2 hours (depending on the pass) and with 440 m of elevation gain, to the Gaetano Barana Refuge at 2147 m and its Telegrafo Peak at 2200 m. This refuge, however, is commonly called ‘Telegrafo’, because it rises a leap from the peak of the same name, on which Napoleon’s army placed an optical telegraph to enable long-distance communication. Now there stands a much-photographed cross.
Stop for a meal, we assure you that the typical, home-made cuisine is really special and genuine. The refuge opens every year from May to October. It also offers the possibility of sleeping in rooms for 2 to more than 8 people, with a shared bathroom on the floor. Only rainwater is used here for washing, so no showering is possible.
This is a walk suitable for everyone, but do not underestimate it. In some sections the climbs are quite tough. We can assure you, however, that you will forget your fatigue thanks to the succession of views and passages between the rocks, which make the route truly suggestive and never the same.
You will smell the scent of dwarf pines, which you will often encounter along the way, interspersed with large meadows that are home to the most varied blooms, depending on the season. There are also some beautiful bushes of fat nettles, which made me think back to the “lasagnette” (a kind of italian fresh pasta) my aunt Cesarina used to prepare at home, masterfully kneading them with this very herb. A delicacy from my childhood, which gave me many sweet memories.
The path is always exposed to the sun, so we recommend covering your head, as well as wearing suitable footwear and carrying a water bottle.
On the way back, you retrace the same route, unless you want to take the variants, which are only suitable for experienced hikers (we discuss them below).
Variants to the main path, only for experienced hikers
The last section of the CAI 658 trail offers two attractive variants, but only suitable for experienced hikers. On the outward journey, we first encounter the Ferrata delle Taccole, well indicated by the corresponding sign;
and then an exposed path (658 variant), which requires knowledge and experience, and which shortens the arrival time because it is more direct.
Is this trek suitable for families?
The CAI 658 trail is also beautiful for families, however we recommend it for children who are at least 5-6 years old because the walk is not very short.
In addition, to access the Prada – Costabella cable car, children must be at least 125 cm tall for safety reasons.
I return home with eyes full of beauty and laughter exchanged with the people I have casually met.
The first is a sprightly elderly lady who stops me exclaiming candidly, ‘What a drag, I haven’t seen a chamois yet!’, peering at me with her blue eyes peeking out from her sunglasses that have dropped halfway down her nose. I then discover that she has a thick layer of sun cream around her eyes, which makes her look like a sort of panda with inverted colours. An incredible character, if I hadn’t said goodbye to her I would still be there talking to her!
With the second one I shared a meal at the hut, because we were joined at the table. A children’s bus driver who had taken them on a trip to Novezzina that morning. He said to me: ‘I saw that I had time to take my lunch break here. I ran up and in an hour I arrived’. I, full of salt on my skin from how much I had sweated walking with all my camera equipment, looked at him astonished and complimented him sincerely. This gentleman has climbed 1000 m at the speed of a deer!
Then he adds: ‘The only thing I miss here is being able to drink a small beer, which quenches my thirst after the effort’. To which I retort: ‘Not even a sip? ‘Absolutely not,’ he replies, ’I’m a driver and I’m responsible.’
I salute you with his earnestness dear Outdoors, which applies to any of us who drive, even alone.
Silvia Turazza
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